The Hammam

When in a new place, I like to experience the culture as fully as possible.  Having heard of hammams  (steam baths), I decided to try one.

Hammams are either for women or men.  The one for women is near where we are staying down a narrow winding stone street.  Not sure exactly where to find it, someone from our place guided me there but first took me to a stall in the souq to buy my very own “scrubber”.  The scrubber is a black glove made out of coarse material to be used to rub all over your body and exfoliate your skin.

Scrubber in hand I continued down the street to a small, somewhat broken down red door where I entered.  There was a dusty plastic screen before the entrance to a small room with mattresses and straw mats.  Women were sitting around naked except for panties and drying themselves.  The place was dark and musty with small rays of light coming in from cracked windows. The mattresses and straw mats were covered in printed material, and I couldn’t really tell how clean they were.  The straw mats were squishy when I stepped on them.  I hesitated and wondered how clean and comfortable I would feel.   Should I make a hasty exit?  No.  I’m going to do this! 

A woman in muslim garb greeted me. I was directed to a mattress where I sat down and took off my clothes and was then given two big empty plastic buckets and a plastic scooper.  After paying 7 dinar (less than $5.00) I was shown to another room filled with steam coming out of a large hot water tub.  Now what? 

I looked around and saw other women (young and old, fat and thin) scrubbing themselves with their feet in buckets of hot water.  I did the same.   After some time, an old woman naked on the top with only one or two teeth came to get me and took me to another adjoining room.  By this time, I had decided to follow whatever I was directed to do and completely give myself over to the process.

She filled the buckets again with warm water and began using the scrubber on my arms.  The pressure was hard but felt good.  Next she motioned for me to lie down on the stone slab.  While lying on my back, she continued scrubbing and rubbing my body all over while regularly pouring warm water over me.  I turned over and she continued. No part of my body was left untouched expect the most private.  It was wonderful, and I felt like a baby being rubbed and scrubbed by her mother.  All the time, water was being poured over me as she kept rubbing and scrubbing.    This went on for some time.  Then, she sprinkled some sweet smelling drops of water all over my body.  She washed and rinsed my hair.  I completely gave myself over to her, and it was marvelous.

 Returning to the front room of the hammam, I found a young woman fully clothed before entering the steam room.  She was sitting on a mattress typing on her large laptop.  What a contrast! 

I was the only non-native in the place and was welcomed warmly and fully. Back on my mattress, I continued drying off and put on my clothes, said good-bye and walked along the narrow street back to our small hotel.  My body was smooth and extremely relaxed.  I felt like a baby waking from a long nap.  Memories of my mother washing me as a baby filled my mind.  We ate an early dinner, and I went to sleep at 7:30 p.m. only to wake up now some 10 hours later.  If you ever come to Tunis, be sure to go to a hammam.  You will have one of the most remarkable experiences of your life.